Beyond the kitchen grind with Jessica Battilana

Bake yourself some masa-honey toasting bread.

Hi all, my mind is on the fires in Los Angeles this week. (Here are two lists of ways to help from afar; my friend Elianna at Thrive Food Bank is also taking donations to help distribute aid.) But I still wanted to send along the links that accompany this long-scheduled episode in case you’re looking for them.

My podcast guest this week, Jessica Battilana, is a many-time cookbook author and a staff editor at King Arthur Baking Company. (Thanks to King Arthur for supporting the show!) She’s also an old friend of mine and one of my favorite people to talk to about cooking.

Jessica mentioned that she’s been reading Camilla Wynne’s new book on candying fruit: “Do we need candied fruit? Like, certainly not. But what a lovely thing to do.”

Cooking is often presented as a chore that needs to be completed. But Jessica says she doesn’t just want to get in and out of the kitchen as quickly as possible: “There are nights that you just need a thing that works and works quickly. But treating it all that way sort of sucks the joy out of being in the kitchen. And I try and hold onto that joy, even though it sometimes, you know, runs contrary to the night-to-night grind of making dinner for my two kids.”

Whether you’re learning to transform winter citrus into candied jewels or to braid a stretchy, multi-strand loaf, slowing down in the kitchen can invite that joy back in. (And yes, it also yields something fun to eat.)

Jessica recently collaborated on King Arthur Baking Co.’s new Big Book of Bread, so we chatted in this episode about fancy swirled breads and giant sticky buns, a surprising use for homemade breadcrumbs, and where to start with simple loaves if you’re not an experienced baker. The recipe for Masa Honey Toasting Bread, reprinted below, is a great first bake for beginners.

“At the core of it, we want people to experience the fun and the joy” of baking, Jessica explains, “whether it’s your first loaf of bread or your seventy-fifth party cake.”

Win a copy of Big Book of Bread

The King Arthur Baking Company’s Big Book of Bread offers 125+ recipes for yeasted and naturally leavened breads. To enter to win your own copy, make sure you’re subscribed to The Dinner Plan newsletter and simply leave a comment on this send by Friday, January 17th. Winner will be alerted by DM and email—be sure to check your messages!

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Jessica mentioned:

Nature’s Candy by Camilla Wynn
Andrea Nguyen’s Mapo Tofu from Asian Tofu
Shoyu and Marmalade Chicken Drumettes from Rintaro
Ottolenghi’s Turkey Zucchini Meatballs from Jerusalem
Ribollita from The King Arthur Baking Company’s Big Book of Bread
Easiest Sourdough Discard Crackers
Big and Bubbly Focaccia
Crispy Cheesy Pan Pizza
Supersized, Super-Soft Chocolate Chip Cookie
Whole Grain Banana Bread
Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin (especially the lemon tart with chocolate)
Liz Prueitt’s Chocolate Pudding from Tartine
Charles Phan’s Vietnamese Home Cooking
King Arthur Baker’s Hotline (855) 371-2253

Maggie mentioned:

Potluck gochujang

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Photo: Ed Anderson

Masa-Honey Toasting Bread

Reprinted from The King Arthur Baking Company Big Book of Bread: 125+ Recipes for Every Baker.

This aromatic bread is made with a combination of bread flour and masa harina, which gives it a wonderful, corn-y flavor. The crisp crust yields to a moist crumb, and, as the name suggests, it’s great toasted.

Yield: one standard loaf

2⅔ cups (320g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
1¾ cups (163g) masa harina, divided
2 teaspoons (12g) table salt
2 teaspoons (6g) instant yeast
1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons (368g) milk, warm (110°F)
¼ cup (84g) honey
4 tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1. In a stand mixer bowl, combine flour, 1½ cups (140g) of the masa, and remaining dough ingredients. Using the dough hook, mix on medium-low speed until a cohesive, stiff yet tacky dough forms, 1 to 2 minutes. Cover and let rest for 20 minutes.

2. Mix dough on medium-high speed until smooth and bouncy, about 5 minutes. Cover and let rise until puffy, though not necessarily doubled in size, about 1½ hours.

3. Transfer dough to lightly floured work surface. Gently deflate, then press into a 12" x 8"rectangle. Bring short sides toward center, overlapping slightly. Flatten dough into an even layer, then starting from the top, gently roll dough toward you to form a log and pinch seam to seal.

4. Spread remaining ¼ cup (23g) masa on a rimmed baking sheet in an even layer. Wet a clean kitchen towel then wring it out. Roll shaped loaf over damp towel, then into masa, turning to coat. Place dough seam-side down into greased 8 ½" x 4 ½" loaf pan. Decoratively score top with a baker’s lame or sharp knife. Cover and let rise until it crowns 1" to 1½" above rim of pan, about 1 to 1½ hours.

5. Toward the end of the rising time, preheat oven to 375°F. Bake for about 45 minutes, until loaf is deep golden brown and internal temperature is at least 195°F. As soon as it comes out of the oven, remove from pan and transfer to a rack. Let cool completely before slicing.